VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino

After lunch, the Supporter Masterclasses resumed with Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino presenting, "Delving Deeper into Brunello 2020". Carlotta Salvini, Head of Marketing and Communication for the Consorzio explained the wealth of innovation taking place in the region, to provide more in-depth information for every vintage, across every vineyard.

A new map of the Brunello di Montalcino production area will be unveiled at Vinitaly. Without spoiling the surprise, Carlotta was able to give the students a detailed slide presentation. The town of Montalcino is on the top of a hill at 564m above sea level. The region is divided into 4 slopes and influenced by three rivers, the Apennines, a large forested area, the presence of Monte Amiata, and the Mediterranean Sea. Brunello di Montalcino comprises 2,100ht and Rosso di Montalcino has 510ht. Carlotta pointed out that producers can now claim Rosso di Montalcino from already planted Sangiovese vineyards. The area’s production is dynamic and producer driven, with the individual producers able to choose whether to produce more Brunello or more Rosso each year.

The big news is the innovation in data collection for the Consorzio. Before 2021, Brunello di Montalcino was tasted and assessed in February after the harvest, when wines were only 4 months old. The vintage was given a star rating referring to quality and potential. They are now assessed in the following October, when the wines are 12 months old, to avoid damaging the reputation of a vintage before it was fully matured. The Consorzio has also now shifted away from a star system to a verbal description of the vintage plus the details of the vintage weather. Carlotta gave us the examples of 2014, described as Grace under Pressure, 2015 described as Power and Purity, and 2016 described as Finesse and Depth. This is a more comprehensive and factual way to understand the vintage.

Criteria for the ratings were described:

• Weather data

• Model specific to Sangiovese

• Model specific to the production area

• Objective data

• Authoritative input

• International assessors

The available data was enormously improved by the addition in 2019 of 36 weather stations to the previously existing 3 weather stations. The combined data creates a comprehensive series of data for the region, since 2020. The model takes into account elevation bands and is calibrated to a control unit. 

Carlotta outlined the 2020 vintage using the data from the model. Temperatures never dropped below 0°C, there was a small but important amount of rain in the spring, July was very dry, there were consistent high temperatures in the summer, with good rainfall in June and August. Two brief heat waves saw temperatures at 35°C and above. The harvest was quick, between September 12-22, in order to protect the phenolic quality of the grapes. 

The assessing Panel is made up of Masters of Wine from Italy, USA, Germany, France, UK and Northern Europe, to ensure an international perspective from experienced professionals. All members of the Consorzio are invited to send samples for assessment. Chemical analysis takes place, as well as tasting. A total of 456 tasting notes were made, with 60% of the production area sampled. The new model for assessment allowed for the creation of a word cloud and the words that jumped out as the top descriptors are: juicy, elegant, long, and freshness.

The Panel and the Consorzio make a final statement that is deliberately not judgemental but, instead, an indication of the vintage overall. The words they chose to describe the vintage were "captivating, bright, succulent", based on the power, potential, and vibrancy of the wine, along with the clarity and definition of the fruit, the structural balance, and the tactile sensation of the tannins.

Wines tasted (All vintage 2020):

Camigliano: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vino Biological

Col D'Orcia: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vino Biological

Fattoi: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 

Lambardi: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 

Mastrojanni: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 

Talenti: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG