VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio
After a much needed break for lunch, the last two supporter Masterclasses began with Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio presenting, "Discovering Collio". Lavinia Zamaro, Director of the Consorzio, joined Sarah Heller for the session.
The Consorzio was one of the first in Italy, celebrating its 60th birthday in 2024. Collio is in the far northeast of Italy, on the border with Slovenia, covering only 7000 hectares, of which 1300 ht are vineyards. Lavinia explained that the region has a long history of war and border conflict, changing governments many times over the centuries. The benefit to these challenges is that Collio is "a melting pot of language and tradition, a crossroads of culture". Not only has there been a cultural exchange, but vines have crossed borders in Collio as well, resulting in a rich viticulture in the region.
Known for a very respectful balance between nature and humans, producers in Collio say "the vineyards are the gardens of their homes". The denomination forms a half-moon shape, facing into the Adriatic Sea. Vineyards benefit from a warm climate, cooled by mountain air and sea breezes, and their very particular ponca soil. Lavinia said, "the soil is the Queen of our terroir", a combination of sandstone and marl, sometimes referred to as flysch. Containing high amounts of quartz and mineral sediments, sea fossils and water deposits, the soil drains well and makes the vines struggle in a positive manner. The territory produces 89% white wines, 11% reds, made up primarily of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Friulano, and Ribolla Gialla. The DOC allows 13 varieties for the Collio DOC Bianco wines. This flexibility gives the producers a rare opportunity to tell their own story through their own individual blends.
Collio has 270 producers and produces 7 million bottles per year. In 2009, a group of 10 producers from the Consorzio decided to rebrand. The distinctive yellow logo and capsule and the specially shaped bottle were created. The light weight bottle supports the Consorzio's commitment to sustainability, and the bell shape of the shoulder allows the wine to age better.
The primary grapes of the DOC were discussed. RIbolla Gialla has a history of over 1000 years in the region, a grape with high acidity, often using skin contact, associated with orange wine but can also make sparkling wine. The Consorzio is moving toward certifying orange wines in the DOC, with regulations created to manage this new style in an organised way. Being able to transmit the information "orange wine" will help consumers understand what to expect when they open the bottle.
Pinot Grigio has a tendency to onion skin colors in the wines; however, producers are moving away from a tinted style of wine, working hard to have no skin contact so wines remain in the lemon color range. Oily texture and lower acidity are characteristics, and ripeness and skin contact time remain important to the final product.
Friulano, formerly known as Tocai Friulano, is a very site-sensitive grape. The key features are an almond and bitter flavor, but recent styles are heading more to a tropical expression in warmer areas. Friulano remains more aromatic on higher altitude sites. More structure and texture comes from hotter areas. In the 1990's the trend was for higher alcohol, fuller bodied wines, often with the use of barriques. Now producers are looking for less alcohol, more acidity, better drinking styles for modern consumers.
Climate change has played a part, with harvest in the past falling between 15-20 September, and recently it is a full month earlier. The DOC requires vineyards to be on hillsides and on ponca soil to maintain a more elegant style.
Malvasia Istriana makes up only 3% of the Collio production but the wines are very refined, with notes of sea salt, saline minerals, hydrocarbons and petrol or kerosene TDNs in age. Sarah commented about her idea of "the crack" in wine; where a wine with a perfect gustatory profile of edible things suddenly has an element of something inedible (volatile acidity or TDN for example), this is "the crack" - the slightly 'dangerous' element that seduces us and makes the wine addictive. Humans are programmed to heightened sensitivity to these elements, this is why people lick pens and sniff glue.
Sauvignon is one of the most exported wines from Collio, mostly to Europe. The grape arrived in the region in the mid 19th century and is made in a range of styles. Producers are currently moving away from forcing the aroma profiles expected by modern consumers. Modern wines don’t use wood but do make use of lees and batonnage, with aging potential up to 5 years.
Wines tasted:
Conti Formentini: Collio DOC Ribolla Gialla 2023
Tenuta Borgo Conventi: Collio DOC Pinot Grigio 2023
Raccaro: Collio DOC Friulano "Rolat" 2023
Livon: Collio DOC Malvasia "Soluna" 2022
Pascolo: Collio DOC Sauvignon 2023
Terre del Faet: Collio DOC Bianco 2021
Renato Keber: Collio Friulano DOC "Zegla" 2015