VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco
The Consorzios were back after lunch, with Paolo Bartoloni, President of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco presenting, "Montefalco: Land of Wine".
Paolo described Umbria as "the green heart of Italy", due to its landlocked central position, rolling hills and forests. Montefalco took its name from the legend of Emperor Frederick II whose favourite falcon fell ill while he was visiting the region in the 13th century. St. Francis of Assisi cured the falcon with a wine based potion made from grapes brought by Santa Chiara from the area of Montefalco. The Emperor was so overjoyed, he named the area Montefalco (hill of the falcon). Today only 700 people live within the ancient walls of this small town, and a total of 7000 people are in the district. The Montefalco DOC was created in 1979 and has Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino for white grapes, and Sagrantino and Sangiovese for red grapes. Sagrantino received DOCG status in 1992. The Denomination covers 1000 hectares and 75 producers. Sagrantino makes up 400 ht of planting, Rosso di Montefalco makes up 450 ht, and 50 ht are focused on whites. Paolo wants to see the white vineyards grow in size. One million bottles of Sagrantino are made per year, 2.8 million bottles of Montefalco Rosso, 300,000 bottles of Grechetto and 200,000 bottles of Trebbiano Spoletino. Only 25% of the total production is exported, which Paolo also wants to increase.
The region has a cooler climate which allows for a later harvest, usually at the end of October or beginning of November for both reds and whites. The Montefalco Rosso is a blend of 60-80% Sagrantino and 10-25% Sangiovese. The wines are very tannic and must age a minimum of 18 months before release. Trebbiano Spoletino must age 12 months before release. Paolo explained why food pairing is so important for the grapes in his region, due to their complexity and higher tannins.
Sagrantino takes its name from "sacra" (sacred) and "tino" (small). The wine was closely associated with the numerous monasteries and convents of the region and probably used in the sacraments. It is known for its thick skins, high tannins, deep color, dark fruit, high acid and late ripening. It was known as the most tannic grape in the world, a reputation that Paolo wants to walk away from to some extent. Sarah said, "It's nice to see your region embracing your tannin and not pulling back as much as other regions, the style is changing but you are staying true to the grape variety". New styles are making excellent use of modern technology to dial down the tannins and create a softer and smoother mouthfeel. Almost 100% hand harvested, Sagrantino usually undergoes a gentle pressing and wood ageing. Paolo is pressing for a Sagrantino Riserva denomination and Sarah agreed that every appellation needs a riserva to preserve the special long aging process required and not confuse consumers with late releases.
Wines tasted:
Bocale: Spoleto DOC Trebbiano Spoletino 2023 was complex, apricot, citrus, tomato leaves, white truffle.
Ninni: Spoleto DOC Trebbiano Spoletino 2023 was more vertical, earthy, notes of pine and cedar, juniper and cider apple.
Fattoria Colsanto: Montefalco DOC Rosso 2020 is part of the Livon group from Friuli. Savory and red plum, with granny tannins.
Lungarotti: Montefalco DOC Rosso 2021 shows the darker side of Sangiovese, with a little Merlot added to the blend, a little fresher and more generous, with grainy tannins.
Moretti Omero: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG "Vignalunga" 2017 is an opaque style with clay-like tannins that stand still on the palate. This was the first organic certified vineyard in the denomination. Still holding acidity despite the stiff tannins.
Fratelli Pardi: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2021 is one of the oldest producers in the denomination, having begun in 1919. The tannins are more leathery across the entire palate, the fruit is very fresh, blackberry, a chewy style, with acidity balancing the alcohol. Not a typical Sagrantino, but appealing to new consumers who want more fruit, less impact.