VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio Tutela Vini Torgiano
Winding up Day 2 for VIA Verona 2025 was Consorzio Tutela Vini Torgiano, "Torgiano: Exploring the Origins of Umbrian Wine". Guests Federico Bibi of Terre Margaritelli and Antonio Carlisi of Lungarotti represented two of the five producers in the Consorzio, which covers a total area of 40 hectares.
Torgiano is located in Umbria, near Assisi and Perugia, in a hilly region between the Tiber and Chiascio Rivers. Altitudes reach between 200-300m above sea level. Sangiovese is the primary grape and the red wines are known for power and balance. The denomination has a rosé (rosato) which allows 50-100% Sangiovese and other non-aromatic grapes. There is also a white wine, which allows 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano and other non-aromatic grapes, often including Grechetto di Todi. Lungarotti also chooses to add Vermentino because it is resistant to climate change and matures reliably. They are experimenting with Trebbiano Spoletino now, but it is not currently included in the blend.
In 1978, Lungarotti began making Torgiano Rosso Riserva, which became 100% Sangiovese in 2009. Terre Margaritelli added a Riserva to their portfolio in 2008, always working with 100% Sangiovese. The Margaritelli family has been in this part of Umbria since the 1800’s and founded their winery in 1948. By 1960, the family was so dedicated to wine that they bought a sawmill in France, where they continue to produce their own barrels today. All Terre Margaritelli wines have at least a very small touch of wood and they do 7 separate harvests of Sangiovese each vintage.
Lungarotti introduced Chardonnay to their portfolio (60% reds, 40% whites) in the 1970’s to open the door to the foreign market. They continue to produce Chardonnay di Torgiano DOC, with 6 months in before bottling. Lungarotti exports to 45 countries, primarily Germany and the USA.
Reds remain the flagship wines for the Consorzio. Margaritelli uses Malbec in their blend, along with traditional varietals from the region, in order to balance the wine perfectly. This type of experimentation is quite popular in the Consorzio, as Federico says, "it is very important in such a small denomination that everyone does their own thing, but our common line is that we all work with Sangiovese". Antonio added, "quality and consistency are important to all of us, as well as the ability to experiment".
To celebrate the 10th Anniversary of VIA, both producers brought their 2015 vintage Riserva wines to share with our students. Federico remarked, “Dante Alighieri said, ‘Wine is a combination of sun, soil, and soul,’ and these wines truly reflect those words. The 2015 was a very special vintage.” The five red wines tasted from these two producers all come from the same small amphitheatre-shaped piece of land facing southeast, emphasizing the small size of the denomination.
Wines tasted:
Terre Margaritelli: Rosato di Torgiano DOC Vino Biological "Venturosa" 2024
Lungarotti: Bianco di Torgiano DOC Torre di Giano "Vigna il Pino" 2021
Lungarotti: Chardonnay di Torgiano DOC "Aurente" 2021
Terre Margaritelli: Rosso di Torgiano DOC "Mirantico" 2021
Terre Margaritelli: Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG "Freccia degli Scacchi" 2020
Lungarotti: Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG "Rubesco Vigna Monticchio" 2019
Terre Margaritelli: Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG "Freccia degli Scacchi" 2015
Lungarotti: Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG "Rubesco Vigna Monticchio" 2015