VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella
The 5th and final Masterclass on the first day of the VIA 2025 10th Anniversary Flagship Course was presented by Sarah Heller and Mauro Bustaggi, Vice President of the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella. Celebrating the 1oth anniversary of VIA, the session focused on "2015 Valpolicella: A Deep Dive into the DOC’s Finest".
Valpolicella wines are present in 87 countries around the world, bringing €600 million to the Italian economy every year. Export counts for 61% of the Valpolicella wines, with Canada and the USA being the biggest markets. China has recently grown to 10% and further growth is expected in Asia. Found in the northwest of Veneto, stretching from the eastern shore of Lake Garda all the way to the western reaches of Soave. Sarah commented that recent years have seen lots of energy in the eastern part of the denomination, because it is more pristine, less developed, more rural. There is a lot of debate about further zonation and more place names in the denominations.
Sarah carefully walked the students through the terroir and geology, pointing out that sustainability is gaining importance, with 40% of the vineyards now certified. Hills vs. plains and closed valleys vs. open valleys are key features, providing differing microclimates. The geological matrix is primarily composed of sedimentary calcareous soils vs volcanic basalt soils. Altitude of vineyards is being affected by climate change, with producers moving up to 600m above sea level to search for cooler air.
The all important blend was discussed. Corvina and/or Corvinone provide between 45-95% of the blend by regulation. Rondinella is 5-30% and all other grapes allowed can make up a maximum of 25% of the final blend. Fermentation temperatures here tend to be lower than average for reds, which accounts for less aggressive tannins and fresher fruit. The native grapes are also sweeter in nature than most Italian red grapes and adapt well to French oak barrique. Sarah spelled out the differences between Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Valpolicella Ripasso and Ripasso Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. Only two wineries produce sparkling recioto sweet wines, a rare, old historic tradition. She reminded students that sweet Recioto was the popular style, long before Amarone became known. The DOCG for Amarone was only designated in 2010. The region is beginning to move towards a shorter period of appassimento, which Sarah thinks is something of a negative and risks losing the classic sweet spice aromas.
Wines tasted (with remarks from Sarah):
All vintage 2015, celebrating the 1oth Anniversary of VIA. It was a warm, dry summer with a relatively early harvest.
1. Pasqua Vigneti e Cantina: Valpolicella DOC Superiore 'Mai Dire Mai'. 15% abv, despite no drying of grapes. Made in steel, then aged 18 months in a combination of large oak and barrique. Sweet fruit due to inclusion of Rondinella, with a floral quality and baking spice. Opaque style, dense.
2. Le Guaite di Noemi: Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore. Lots of high quality hillside Corvinone in this eastern part of the region. Vegetal, leafy, with typical notes of concentrated ripe cherry. Grapes for the base wine are dried for one month, then destemmed, cryomaceration, french oak barrique 36 months, bottle aged 36 months. High alcohol from double layer of drying brought by the added pomace from the pressed Amarone grapes. Six days second fermentation. 15.5% abv. but still feels more sheer than anticipated. Impressive.
3. Rubinelli Vajol: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico. "The Ruby Shift", says Sarah, using 40% Corvina, 40% Corvinone, calcareous soils on lower land gives a saline quality. No barrique, only tonneaux. Only 2.5gr residual sugar; it is the appassimento that gives a concentration and sweet aromas. 16% abv. Sarah says "this is a wine of harmony, the tannins are diffused and seamlessly integrated".
4. Tommaso Bussola: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico. Fifty day spontaneous fermentation, 4 months appassimento, various sizes of oak vessels for good oxygen exchange.
5. Villa Bellini: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico. Only 90 days of appassimento. 16% abv., aged in French oak of various sizes, more sheer style. From Castelroto on a small limestone hill 150m above sea level. Using a combination of guyot and pergola training, their vines are from 20-100 years old. Saline quality with more Corvinone in the blend.
6. Roccolo Grassi: Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. From Mezzane, 300 m above sea level, southeast exposure, volcanic soils. More Corvina than Corvinone, good acidity despite the high residual sugar levels. 14.5% abv, natural drying, pressing in mid February. Cold maceration before fermentation, moderate temperature for 30 days. Not a lot of tannic extraction. Aged in barrique for 18 months, then 24 months in bottle. Powdery tannins, sweet spice elements. Good to remember the sugar level is significantly lower than CocaCola, in light of emerging health concerns surrounding wine, sugar and alcohol.